Posted on

DIY Hangboard

It is fairly easy to make this hangboard with basic tools. It is a great piece of equipment for every climber. In my opinion, this style of homemade hangboard should be the easiest to make. In the video, I show the process I have decided to use and I believe it results in a professional-looking homemade hangboard. 🙂 It is largely inspired by the Dave Macleod’s Edge hangboard. (https://www.davemacleod.com/shop/edge)

If you wanna make something similar you can use this drawing of the DIY-hangboard I made.

Posted on

How to print FLEX


Flexible things might sometimes be pretty useful. If you need some flat seal type thing you can usually just cut it out of rubber sheet, but what if you need something little more complex? Then printing it using a 3D printer is for most of us the only way to make it.

It is pretty easy if you follow basic rules.:

  1. Use a direct extruder
  2. Lower print speed to 20mm/s
  3. Disable retraction

These are the basics, there are however few more things to consider. I go through everything, including build plate adhesion it the video.

Links to upgrades you might need:
Filament funnel for extruder
Extruder Fan Modification

If you have any questions or suggestions, leave a comment.

Posted on

3 options to improve build plate adhesion

Build plate adhesion is one of the most important things when 3D printing. There are obviously many things that affect build plate adhesion. Most of them are specific to the 3D printer you use as well as the material you are printing. But regardless of those things, you can generally improve build plate adhesion using your slicing software.
There are generally 3 options skirt, brim, and raft. They are used for different purposes. For example brim and raft are very useful when your model has a lot of tiny features on its base. But I go in more detail in the video.
Those options are just perfect for improving the reliability of your prints. There is nothing worse than your model becoming loose halfway through the print.

Posted on

Anet A8 upgrade – metal frame


The original frame of the Anet A8 is not very rigid, which is terrible for print speed and quality of prints. Therefore we will replace the acrylic frame with a new metal frame. This means I can now literally double the print speed of my Anet A8 while still achieving better quality. Ghosting is all gone and printing is quieter.

As promised here are the basic dimensions and parts you will need.

Parts to print

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3401790

You can print all plastic parts yourself before you take the original Anet A8 printer apart.

30×30 mm extrusions

30×30 mm extrusions: (Amazon affiliate link)

30×30 mm extrusions: (Amazon non-affiliate link)

  • X-axis – 2x – 260 mm, 320 mm – 1x
  • Y-axis – 2x – 405 mm
  • Z-axis – 2x – 465 mm

Bolts and nuts

  • M6 – 10 mm bolt – 80x
  • M6 – 15 mm bolt – 20x
  • M6 – flange nut – 100x
  • M3 – 14 mm bolt – 4x (Bolts of this specific length are necessary for securing the Y-axis linear rods in place.)
  • You will obviously need more M3 bolts and nuts, but you can take these from the original frame.